Back from the Langtang-Gosaikund-Helambu trek (for the ones, that the names mean anything). 12 days walking, perhaps around 200km in distance, 6 nights above 3000m. Latter means cold. The German woman with whom i shared a living for several days before my trek had told me describing her Annapurna cirquit trek "And I was so excited about the hot water bottle in my sleeping bag". I found it funn to be excited about a bottle. Well, let me tell you, I became very fond of my bottle (thank you, Kairit!) and it was very exciting to roll it between the feet in the sleeping bag, lying in the bedroom with 0 degrees and wind blowing.
But first things first. The trek starts only 117km away from Kathmandu, but it took 8h to get there! Lonely Planet said 7h, but I guess all the new numerous landslides took the extra time. I was surprised such a prehistoric bus can master such a road. But looks are deceiving! To avoid thinking of freefall down half way to Kathmandu I decided to distract myself with reading while the bus heaved up what mostly seemed offroad way to Syabrubesi. Only one near accident and one motorbiker falling down the hill, but managing to save himself, we all made it. Except one of the windows of the bus, which fell out the moment someone leaned on it. That someone belonged to our future great team of Langtang trekkers - Irish guy Michael. The rest of the team was his brother Christopher and Polish girl Ewelina. We met on the bus and teamed up and how great was that! And not only because I learned how to play shithead :) It was much fun and when it came to a moment at descending from Tserko Ri (4984m, or according to my map 5033!) where my porter Susan (a man's name here) just left me and continued to walk down the mountain while I was taking a rest, I had to decide whether to run after him or trust the team of three just a bit behind. The latter was an obvious choice. As you can assume, I was not happy with my porter. It was his job to make sure I'm safe. Already he had lied (well, said 'yes', but meant 'no') that he knows the different way down the peak, but it turned out he didn't and we ended up on some landslide trail with 40 degrees angle and not much room for mistakes. Two years ago one guy died there because the porter had left him and he had broken his leg. It may sound melodramatic, but it is indeed serious business. Things can go bad really quickly even if below 5000. Anyway, for us everything went fine, we met another group who we followed down. Susan was happily having lunch when we arrived. Bon app! It had been a hard day, it was just a bit over 1km that we did up and then down, but you can feel the altitude. Its not easy to move. But you have to keep getting higher and higher, to reach there top before there clouds creep in. Snickers bar on the way up was insanely good. And with that powershoot, which I felt for about 4 steps, I did get to the top and it was amazing. Opera of mountains 360 degrees. Beautiful! I will upload pics on fb as usual.
Next day we had a meeting with an interpreter to explain him that what he did was not ok. A week later he did pull another disappearance act on me, but in easy circumstances. Then came a final test after that. We were walking on a tiny little path above road construction. At some point the path was limited to just maybe 15cm width and below that a straight fall to the road about 4 metres below. I remember that before taking a step down to that edge I was assessing it 'damn, this is pretty shitty little part here'. Carefully as usual I make the step and uups, the balance is disappearing. Damn, I'm really losing it here. Shit. Indeed I'm now about to fall to the right, thank god its not asphalt, but its far away! Is this really happening? F**k yes, it seems so. Ever so smartly I had this inner dialogue in complete silence in my head. Too perplexed to make a sound. But then a strong hand grabbed my left arm and pulled towards the hill, I found the balance again, crossed the edge and was fine. Susan had stepped up. I am very thankful for that.
This was on the last day of trekking, so I jumped a bit ahead with the story.
After what I still choose to believe above 5000m peak, we trekked down the same way. Next night was in a place called Lama Hotel and I had a bucket shower. One third of a bucket with boiling water which I could mix with cold water according to my own pleasure. Ahhh, how good it felt! To be able to wash yourself! Warm water on my head and all over! Incredible :) Up in 3870 where we were the last 2 nights, the water was ice cold and well, in the cold the sweat does not smell that strong anyway...right!?
Talking about showers, electricity and other luxuries - availability of them really varies. In Langtang once we had room with your own hot shower and private toilet and the mattresses where brand new and so comfy. The whole establishment was built only in September. Superlux, plus this village had a yakcheese factory/bakery, so we could have a fresh hot cheese sandwich. Marvellous.
But sometimes there was no electricity at all in the bedrooms building. Or no running water. Mostly mattresses so thin that my hips are a bit sore. But its all part of it, part of trekking and anyway quite luxerious compared to camping. In the guesthouse at 3870 the owners themselves were sleeping in a tent in front of the house, because it was full. They said its nice and warm in a tent. Yeah, I believe that. When it comes to food and drink, then poor owners who left their honey in our sight! We diminished it greatly. Water in higher altitudes is never burning hot. So you get your tea, but its already quite cold and you can't warm your fingers with that for very long. But if the alternative its ice cold water, the choice its clear.
The boys had to head back to Kathmandu, so the team of 5 became 3. Me and Ewelina continued towards the Gosaikund lakes at 4380m. This was also the highest place to spend the night. When we arrived during the daytime, it was 5 degrees in the dining room. It felt a bit warmer outside. In the evening everyone circled around the fireplace and was afraid of the night ahead. Sleeping in zero degrees. I managed. New day, bright blue sky and we could see the lake in its perfection with the peaks in the background. But when reaching the pass on 4609m, looking down to the other side, a thick layer of clouds was was awaiting. Just like looking out of an airplane. But you are the pilot and you know you need to enter those clouds. It looked like a ceiling and I hoped I will find a moment where my legs are in the clouds and head above it, would be so funny. But no. It was a 6h hard descending on ice and snow and then another 2h climbing up again. Why oh why. One more cold night and then going down again 1.8km and again 800m up. After a second difficult night pretty hard. Ewelina fell like 4 times and was questioning if she can make it in one piece. But we did. We were finally in summer weather again in mid 2000 metres, absolutely beautiful villages, women washing clothes in the streams, children playing about, normal village life. It felt good. In the evening we rewarded ourselves with some cold beer. Everyone's mood was up. The hard part was over.
Next night we did a homestay, which was really nice. We could see a family life from the inside. Played some games with the kids and I "helped" 12y old Yangjen with the homework. One question for the natural sciences class was to guess whether the following is correct: "Endoplasmic reticulum may have ribosomes attached to it"
.
Obviously!
...I didn't dare to see what the 7 and 6 year old have as homework. But in their school all the classes are in English except of course the nepali language class. But that's amazing! I never thought the whole education in some places is in English. Perhaps because that was quite a rich region...dunno.
With homestay you also get the best food :) and we helped to cut and chop etc
And then one more day, another almost 2km down, almost fall, but not and next day bus and back to Kathmandu. Now off for a lunch with the trekking agency manager, because yesterday I went to give my feedback on the trek and Susan and he invited. Why to say no to a free meal? Should take some meat as I hardly remember the taste of that! In the evening meeting with a big bunch a French trekkers is planned. During those many evenings together in the teahouses I felt like I'm in Belgium again. Is that good or bad I leave up for interpretation :)
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